"Too bad so much of our good work gets buried," Richard laments. ![]() You'll see it in the way a good plumber arranges pipes and valves for ease of maintenance, avoids wasting material or weakening framing, and takes care to wipe joints clean. ![]() Planning and installing a system that's quiet, efficient, and leak free is something of an art. There's more to proper plumbing than just following the codes and rules. And supply pipes that aren't anchored every 6 feet or so will rattle and thump every time a faucet is turned off. An undersize, improperly sloped drain will continually clog. A lot is at stake: One leaky joint can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. But whether the pipes are plastic, metal, or a combination of the two, it's the plumber's skill that determines how well the system works. Now, those materials have been supplanted (for the most part) by PVC plastic, copper, and flexible cross-linked polyethylene, known as PEX. I figure the sewer entering the building about 2-1/2 to 3 feet from the corner of the building under the sliding glass door.Once, state-of-the-art in plumbing was cast-iron drains and brass supply pipes. Not sure if it meets code in your area or not. I made a quick sketch of the way I would plumb it (attached). This will be much cheaper, and will work just as well, assuming the heater is going on an outside wall. Your other option would be to put the water heater in a pan, and plumb a drain from the pan out of the building above grade. I saw your post about a floor drain in case the heater blows : Using a floor drain is fine, but with a floor drain you'll want a trap primer to keep the trap from drying out and stinking up the house. Concrete is very porous and I assume that even with the best sealing methods, water will find a way into the concrete anyway. If you opt out of using any kind of a pan system, do expect that the concrete will absorb all of that crud and become very smelly. But anyway, back to the plumbing.Ĭlick to expand.If you're not using a fiberglass pan, then you need to "Make one" using approved methods and materials read : (custom). I'm thinking that beach glass may look interesting. I'm told that I can "seed" the cement, when it's being poured, with specific aggregates that will customize the look of the floor. ![]() After the pour I want to rent a grinder and grind down the cement to a smooth finish. I'm not in a hurry so I can take the time to make sure that I've got it right before moving forward.Īfter i get the plumbing sorted out i will lay rigid insulation, and then pex for in floor heating. Of course there are some things that I wouldn't touch, such as the actual pouring and finishing of the slab, and the electrical too, but I think I'm up for doing the rest myself. That is part of the attraction of doing this building myself, to learn as I go, and create something unique, creative, and practical, that I can be proud of. I have considered consulting with a plumber, and may find that I have to, but am hoping that if I do enough research, and engage with a DIY site like this one for guidance, that I can figure this out and do it myself.Īs I'm sure that most people that attend a DIY site and forum will understand, there is a great sense of accomplishment in creating something or fixing something yourself. Yes, I agree that code requirements are in place for good reason( mostly).Īnd yes, I do live in an area where I'm not required to have a permit for this little building.
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